09May A Quick Guide to Wet Shaving with MÜHLE
Since 1945 MÜHLE has been providing high-quality shaving products all around the world; everywhere from Stützengrün to Singapore. MÜHLE translates traditional wet shaving into modern culture; we turn duty into pleasure, haste into relaxation.
The History of Wet Shaving
Egyptian noblemen remove unwanted facial and body hair using razor-like instruments made of copper.
MIDDLE BRONZE AGE (16th CENTURY BC)
Hair and Beard grooming in Europe is facilitated by the spread of one and two-bladed razors and tweezers.
In his Ars amatorial (The Art of Love), Ovid advises young men: “Stubble on one’s chin is common, so only show yourself clean shaven.”
Petrus Venerabilis, Abbot of Cluny, rules that the number of days on which monks must shave shall be 14- per year.
Czar Peter the Great imposes a beard tax on his subjects.
Wet shaving becomes fashionable in the courts of England, France and Germany. At the same time, barbers’ guilds and fraternities flourish.
King Gillette takes out a patent for thin razor blades which are still in use today. Before that, straight razors were used that the users had to re-sharpen very often.
Made in Germany: Otto Johannes Müller establishes MÜHLE Pinsel in Hundshübel, Ore Mountains, thus starting a company that ranks among the few internationally renowned manufacturers of high-quality shaving brushes nowadays.
Early 21st century
The wet-shaving ritual becomes a fashion: 56% of German men wet-shave (according to the stern’s 2004 survey).
PANTA RHEI Everything Flows
Water and its temperature, plays an integral part in every step of your shave routine:
Warm water is ideal for moistening skin, making foam, rinsing the brush and cleaning your face.
Hot water (as a hot towel shave or after a shower) opens your pores and prepares the skin for shaving.
Cold water is great for cleansing the face after shaving.
Note: Please do not use hot water (exceeding 45c) when you foam up and rinse the brush, as this can damage the brush’s fine hairs.
Not from the Can: Shave Care
SHAVING SOAP AND SHAVING CREAM
Our shaving soap makes for a slightly scented and especially nourishing lather; rich in natural essences, minerals, and trace elements, it is regarded as a wet shaving classic. Our MÜHLE shaving cream is made of real beeswax and natural glycerine; making for a smooth shave. The fact that it comes in a tube makes our shaving cream an ideal travel companion.
Light and refreshing, our balms moisturise, soothe and nourish. In short, they provide your skin with everything it needs after a shave.
The basic component of the light and cooling elixir is pure, clear water. And apart from that we use only the best ingredients. For example: witch hazel (also known as hamamelis) works to close the pores, experts also attest to its astringent function. Extracts of sugar beet and reed diminish the itching and strengthen the resilience of the cells against UV light.
Safety razors by MÜHLE with replaceable blades are not only unashamedly elegant, but they are also made with the highest mechanical precision. Due to its CLOSED TOOTH COMB, this safety razor allows for a very gentle shaving technique, excellent for shaping fine contours and sharp lines. The handling requires a bit of extra time, however it is an enjoyable and relaxing process which is done with ease after a little practice.
The MÜHLE safety razor with an open tooth comb allows for a very direct, even straight-forward shaving technique due to its construction and the specially adjusted angle of the blade. The combination of OPEN TOOTH COMB with broad toothing and a gap behind the foam edge ensures that the edge is kept free of residues such as stubble and lather. The open tooth comb razor is favoured by some shave enthusiasts who prefer a more aggressive shave.
THE SHAVING BRUSH
After you’ve prepared your skin with soft, self-made lather once, you might never want to do without this little time out in the bathroom again.
Since the 18th century, the shaving brush has been used to foam up and to apply the lather to the skin. We make shaving brushes from badger hair or synthetic fibres. Silvertip Fibre is our hard-wearing innovation that proves especially easy to maintain. Handmade and suitable for vegans, Silvertip Fibre brushes provide a refined combination of soft tips with a strong mid-section.
Still producing a lather from even small amounts of shaving soap or cream, Silvertip Fibre is a great alternative to Badger hair. Another benefit is how quickly it dries after shaving!
By the way, we offer REPLACEMENT HEADS for many of our shaving brushes. Check out the MÜHLE website to find out more.
The Proper Shave
Before using it for the first time, make sure to clean the shaving brush thoroughly with soap and water.
Firstly, moisten the area to be shaved with warm water or begin after showering, so that the beard is already softened.
If using a shaving cream, apply a small amount to a moist brush or directly to the area to be shaved. When using shaving soap, circle the soap several times with the moist brush. Once the brush has absorbed a sufficient amount of shaving soap, apply it in a circular motion with light pressure to the face. Apply the same method when using shaving cream. This creates an increasingly firm lather. Ideally, massage this lather into the beard with the brush for up to 3 minutes.
Now begin shaving. Always use a sharp blade. Start by shaving in the growth direction of the beard (with the grain), and only against the direction of hair growth (against the grain) when going back over the same area. Always pull the skin taut. Do not apply pressure to the razor, but let it slide lightly over the skin.
Then rinse the remaining lather from your face using cold water. Any bleeding or cuts can be stopped with a styptic pencil (e.g. MÜHLE alum pen or MÜHLE alum stone). The MÜHLE Aftershave balms nourish and soothe the skin.
Warning: Do not apply strong pressure to the skin when shaving. Avoid moving the razor sideways and shaving the same section of your skin too often. Pull the razor gently over your skin, only applying its own weight. Avoid skin with spots or pimples.
CLEANING THE SHAVING BRUSH
To properly clean the brush after a shave, first run clean water down into the middle of the brush head and stroke through the material several times from different angles. Make sure that even in the middle of the brush head- where the hairs are attached to the handle- there are no more visible lather residues. Avoid using very hot water for lathering and rinsing. The water temperature should not exceed 45C. When cleaning the brush, do not use chemical detergents, vinegar, Dettol, borax or similar substances.
Changing the Blade
To change the blade of a razor, place the razor in your hand with the razor head facing down. Hold the razor head in one hand and use the other hand to unscrew the razor handle. Keep the razor head in your hand and leave the handle close to you. Remove the razor head bottom part (perforated plate) from the razor head top part (slightly arched piece). Take a razor blade out of the cartridge. Hold the razor head top part in one hand and use your thumb and index finger to grab the razor blade at its short, blunt sides. Let the razor blade slide onto the three punched pins. BE VERY CAREFUL! The sharp blade edges should be overlapping the razor head top part now. Put the razor head bottom part back onto the pins of the razor head top part. Use your free hand to take the razor handle and carefully screw it together with the blade-holding pieces. Make sure to only tighten the screw to the end so that it can be unscrewed without much force. You are now ready to start shaving with your MÜHLE safety razor!
Shaving with a Safety Razor
For best shaving results, only use a blade for five practical applications. Follow our safety instructions on how to change a razor blade. Hold the safety razor at a sharp angle (approx. 30 degrees) to the skin. Start with the cheeks and allow the razor to glide over the skin, applying gentle pressure. Always shave in the direction of the beard growth (with the grain).
When shaving the neck, stretch the skin tight with your free hand. Do not be discouraged by small cuts or grazes. Once you have familiarised yourself with the razor, they will rarely occur. Ideally only pass once over the same part of your face and neck.
Please note, different blades may differ in their sharpness.
Over a 100 years ago King Camp Gillette invented the razor blade, a thin piece of hardened steel with sharp edges. Before that, shaving with a straight razor was common. Blades have been standardised for decades now and are available worldwide.
MÜHLE blades are available online and in store, you can view them online here for more information.
Please note, different blades form different suppliers may differ in their sharpness.
THE BLADE GUARD
Safety first: The blade guard protects the blade and prevents from cuts when storing, or travelling with the safety razor.
THE BLADE BANK
The blade collector made of porcelain disposes of blades stylishly and safely. Eliminating the risk of injury, used razor blades can be collected in the porcelain bowl. A harmonious complement to our shaving mugs in both form and material.
The alum pen or stone is a naturally occurring substance that was originally part of every barber’s equipment. After shaving, a dampened alum stone has an antiseptic effect, closing the skins pores while leaving it soft and smooth.
THE SHAVING TOWEL
Applied shaving culture: Anyone who has ever been shaved by a barber knows the delight of perfect shaving preparation, beginning with the heat of a hot towel. MÜHLE shaving towels made of fine waffle piqué are designed precisely for this purpose.
Due to its square relief structure the cotton texture absorbs a great deal of moisture and retains the soothing heat during application. After the shave, the soft material pampers once again during cleaning and drying the face.
THE SHAVING MIRROR
For a closer view we have magnifying shaving mirrors to help with shaving accuracy.
WARNING: Do not expose to direct sunlight.
THE SHAVING BOWL
The shaving bowl provides a great way to store and foam your shaving soap or cream. The RN5 is made of fine porcelain and has two compartments: the larger side ideally for placing your shaving soap and the smaller side to hold water or, when in use, place the shaving brush.
Well held: For brushes or entire sets, we provide high-quality chrome-plated holders. Shaving brushes dry better upside down with a heavy metal base to guarantee a secure footing.
From Head to Toes: MÜHLE ORGANIC
From pure Argan oil and shea butter to fine extracts of reed and baobab, the natural cosmetics series ORGANIC unites simply the best nature has to offer. And, just for once, not only fans of shaving culture. This premium care range was developed for the skin and hair of everyone who appreciates a bit of affordable luxury in their bathroom.
Scented with the finest fragrances of lime, mint and vetiver and certified as CERTIFIED NATURAL COSMETICS, the products are characterised by their sustainability. Only herbal raw materials obtained from organic farming or from organic wild harvesting are used. The result is the purest bliss, day by day. Seriously!
The mild and nourishing FACE WASH was developed for even the most sensitive of skin types. The FACE CREAM contains pure Argan oil and is thus especially rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids. It uniformly nurtures, protects and optimises the hydro-lipid balance of your skin. The rich REPAIR SERUM is the icing on the cake with regard to your daily beauty routine. Rich in Q10, this active ingredient complex protects against aging, it was developed particularly for the care and regeneration of the facial skin and the skin around the eyes.
The complete packet, from head to toe: The creamy-light SHOWER GEL with Argan oil, vegetable glycerine and wheat protein makes for a fine lather, its airy consistency both refreshing and nurturing. The BODY LOTION combines the best for demanding skin: It contains pure Argan oil and is especially rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids. The ingredients soya oil and shea butter support the skin’s own hydro-lipid balance. The mild SHAMPOO cleans your hair with purely natural detergent base materials obtained on the basis of coconut oil, amino acids and sugar. Hydrolysed soy protein encompasses individual hairs making it easy to comb.
Shaving care at its best: With its light and smooth consistency the SHAVING CREAM allows a clean and effortless shave. The shaving cream also takes perfect care of the skin with its creamy waxes, glycerine and pure Argan oil. The AFTERSHAVE BALM is also rich in vitamin E and essential fatty acids. The healing power of aloe Vera, highly valued for thousands of years, prevents a dehydration of the skin and supports its elasticity. Calendula extracts and bisabolol obtained from chamomile have an antiseptic effect. For minimalists: PURE ARGAN OIL, also called the liquid gold of Morocco, can be used in combination with other MÜHLE products, or individually. Argan oil is ideal for the intensive care of lips, skin and nails.
Plant Extracts for your Skin
Obtained from Mediterranean Aloe plants, our Aloe Vera fragrance soothes and refreshes the skin. Aloe Vera regenerates and moisturizes with an invigorating, fresh composition. As a treat before and after shaving we offer high-quality shaving soaps, shaving creams and aftershave lotions. All the individual products are carefully arranged in terms of their fragrance, active ingredients and care properties.
Created for all skin types, this ingredient supports the regeneration of your skin’s cell structure. It is, so to speak, like a weather-proof coat for the skin. Finest Sea Buckthorn obtained from plants in various coastal areas has been supplemented with fresh and fruity notes of lime and orange.
For normal and dry skin- and discerning noses: the precious, essential oil is obtained from essences of the sandalwood tree. It revitalises the skin while moisturising at the same time. The velvety masculine fragrance with a balsamic wood note is also especially classy and distinctive.
For the country located in the north-west of Africa, the utilisation of the fruit kernels of the Argan tree is a genuine treasure. All MÜHLE organic recipes contain traditionally hand pressed Argan oil, produced by a Moroccan women’s cooperative and marketed on a fair-trade basis. The substance is particularly rich in vitamin E, antioxidants and radical scavengers; it regenerates, nurtures moisturises whilst encouraging blood flow. Regarded as an effective anti-aging agent.
For Today and the Day After Tomorrow
Our quality standards are regarded worldwide as exemplary. Nevertheless, we remain a learning company that asks itself every day: What can we do better? In these times of ecological change, we are focusing very strongly on the vegan and raw materials that we employ in the form of synthetic fibres (Black Fibre or Silvertip Fibre) for shaving brushes as well as complete natural cosmetic series. In order to conserve resources, we work to a large extent with regional suppliers and over the last few years we have converted our manufacturing to fully integrated production.
Our design concepts are created in cooperation with selected designers and achieve aesthetic standards that stand the test of time. Each product has to prove its ergonomic suitability and longevity already in the early development phase.